/ Reviews / Turkish
The Language of Meat
by Monica Liau
on Friday, November 13, 2009 12:00 AM
Pasha's Turkish Restaurant, opened three weeks ago, tries to avoid the kitsch effect other venues of its kind give in to. There are no belly dancers here; no plush "Aladdin" rugs, and definitely no cheesy Middle Eastern techno-pop. Instead, Pasha's tries to portray the modern face of Turkey with authentic dishes presented in a tastefully designed interior of dark wood and muted aquamarines.
Turkish food can be similar to Mediterranean cuisine, as there are wide overlaps in ingredients and staples. But according to Pasha's Co-owner Burak Kiroglu, Turkish food not only offers staples like hummus, but also centers on the art of kebabs. "A good kebab chef is more than a master of the grill," says Kiroglu emphatically. "He should speak the language of the meat."
The chef at Pasha's does lamb particularly well, served in large portions meant for sharing. His Kofte (RMB42) - medallions of superbly spiced lamb and beef meatballs served in a light tomato sauce - were remarkable for their softness and flavor. Kiroglu says the secret is not skimping on the fat. Ali Nazik (RMB98) was a winner, consisting of twice-roasted eggplant pureed with yogurt sauce and garlic, served with tender roasted lamb on top. The Mix Kebab Platter (RMB128/238) also featured a showing of well-seasoned, well-cooked meat.
Most unique was the Beyti (RMB125) - lavash bread filled with ground beef and lamb, garlic and parsley. The roll is skewered and grilled, then baked with cheese, pistachios, and a tomato and yogurt sauce. It sounds strange, but the result is fragrant, colorful and impossible to find anywhere else in Shanghai.
While some of the other dishes - like the Turkish mini pizza platter (RMB45) - were less noteworthy, in general Pasha's presents sophisticated and well-rounded sampling of Turkish cuisine. "A lot of people think Turkish food is kebabs and sandwiches eaten drunk at four in the morning," says Kiroglu sadly. "We want to change that image and show what Turkish food is really about."
The Bottom Line: Pasha's shows Shanghai a more sophisticated Turkey.
