/ Reviews / Vietnamese
The Heat is Off in Saigon
by Sarah Sherman
on Friday, November 05, 2010 12:00 AM
Perched on the top floor of Plaza 66, Le Saigon sits in a building that has become a local shopping landmark, a symbol of all things luxury. However, if it's luxury Vietnamese cuisine you are after, Le Saigon is not the place for you; the food is much more geared towards recreating a soupcon of Vietnam for the rushed eater in need of a quick bite. For instance, the French-style Beef Cubes (RMB86) mixed with impeccably sautéed tomatoes and onions, and the Fried Spring Rolls (RMB46) make perfectly delicious lunch options.
From the outside, the water fountains and artistic wooden ceiling allow Le Saigon to blend in with the Plaza 66 dress code; but inside, the Soft-shell Crab Rice Paper Rolls (RMB68) and Roasted Chicken with Taro Curd (RMB72) are disappointing renderings of staples. While the initial seeds of menu items may be classic, these fail to germinate into either perfectly executed traditional takes or daring modern interpretations. The chicken, served head and all, lacks a purpose to its shilly-shallying ingredients, with an unexciting tomato paste dipping sauce that does little to compliment the natural flavor of the chicken.
There's not much of note to be said for the seafood department either. The Stewed Catfish with Black Beans (RMB58), though richly flavored, is not of the expected quality; the flesh is boney, fatty and - again - lacking in impact. Fishing around for appetizing morsels is more work than it's worth.
In general, stick to beef, pork and veggie dishes. The Locomotive Rice Noodle Soup (RMB58), made with beef meat, is an intriguing and heartily flavored broth, served with fresh mint and basil on the side for you to sprinkle in as you desire. If you are feeling adventurous, this one is definitely worth a try.
Le Saigon seems to have chosen to focus less on quality ingredient and more on the sauces, which are either bland or overwhelming with few exceptions. When you are looking for a Vietnamese fix in Plaza 66, Le Saigon will do as a simple, convenient place to visit - just don't expect the high-fashion clothes to be mirrored by high-fashion food.
The Bottom Line: While it seems to have ticked all the boxes on the "how-to" list of Vietnamese venues, Le Saigon has been churned out to satisfy a craving, rather than lovingly nurtured into an alluring restaurant.
