Barbarian Invasion

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by Tom Lee
on Friday, July 16, 2010 12:00 AM

With more drinks and more dishes, the second Southern Barbarian is providing customers with more to savour. Certainly, the old location has its quaint charm that still creates an irresistible draw, but the new venue has all the smartness required by LuJiaZui's financial district. With this more elegant venture come more luxurious dishes - albeit with higher prices.

One of the more expensive additions is the Barbecued Cod (RMB108). Owing most of its delight to the punchy citrus juices and mint leaves, the retiring fish is encouraged out of its spring onion wrapping to perform a titillating dance on the palate. Another new arrival, the Beer Chicken (RMB60) again benefits from a really delicious sauce. Served with an overturned, half-filled beer glass that slowly replenishes the dish as you eat, the liquid would be good enough to slurp straight off the plate - if it wasn't for the awe-inspiring selection of 90 beers (largely Belgian) that are available on the drink menu, making such slurps redundant, if not downright sacrilegious.

Not all the newcomers are prize winners, however good they appear on paper. Topping the list of extravagant dishes is the Whole Steamed Pumpkin Stuffed with Truffle-studded Pork (RMB108), which sounds as if it's a gift straight from Shangri-La but comes out a rather watery dud.

Perhaps in the case of the disappointing pumpkin and pork, it's just trying to be a little too clever. Simple portions aren't necessarily mere addendums to a meal. The Salt and Pepper Fried Yunnan Goat Cheese (RMB32), for example, is extremely tasty and extremely basic, prepared with salt and pepper exactly as it's described, without any embellishments. The goat's cheese isn't as overpowering as some varieties and so can be universally enjoyed; in fact, according to Feng JianWen (owner of the establishment), it's the original Southern Barbarian's top-selling dish. Successful due to the same integrity of ingredients, the Basil Salad (RMB22) is tossed in a ginger-chilli dressing that is extraordinarily potent, offset by truly fresh and aromatic basil leaves. Those with a phobia of spice stay well clear because the combination of ginger strips and slices of chilli will set your mouth ablaze. At the same time, it's addictive and unreservedly recommended. Just make sure you have one of those beers handy.

The Bottom Line: There are a few hiccoughs to iron out but that is unlikely to stop the PuDong branch from imitating the success of the PuXi original.