The Cathay Room

by Raphael Seghin
on Friday, September 30, 2011 12:00 AM

The Bund's Fairmont Peace Hotel permeates history unlike any other venue in Shanghai. Originally built by Sir Victor Sassoon, the hotel first opened its doors in 1929, and, with its 12 storeys, was the first ‘high-rise' in China. Throughout its 80 years, it has witnessed each tumultuous stage of China's recent history, changing hands and names yet never losing its majestic appeal. Celebrities and politicians have passed through the elegant art-deco lobby, from Charlie Chaplin to Muhammad Ali. During the 50s and 60s, the hotel was one of only two in Shanghai to allow foreign guests. More recently, as China rejoined the world, the hotel began to regain some of its former glory, culminating in the recent renovations which took over 3 years to complete.

The Cathay Room's name renders homage to the hotel's original title, The Cathay Hotel. Situated on the 9th floor, the restaurant has managed to keep its old-school charm even after the renovations. A favorite haut of Bill Clinton during his stay, The Cathay Room emits a certain formality, and new executive chef Denis Lartigue, formally of the Hilton hotel, understands that such a historic restaurant deserves the appropriate representation. His goal is to give the locale its distinct identity, and his conscious choice to let the high-quality ingredients speak for themselves strengthens that point.

To do this, Chef Lartigue is in the process of putting the finishing touches on his new menu. Entree like the Seared Red Tuna Loin marinated with Balsamic Vinegar (RMB108), topped with his own version of a salad Niceoise, which he calls salad Cote d'Azur, is accompanied by the real star of the dish; black olive ice cream. By itself, the pungent taste of the olive can be overwhelming, but when coupled with the tuna, the varied tastes combine perfectly to provide an exciting and unique sensation on the palate. For mains, Lartigue plans to offers classic European dishes like Canard a L'orange or Lamb Loin Roasted with a Mustard and Herbs Crust (RMB228), with confit tomato garnish, chanterelle mushrooms and fava beans. For dessert, try the Cathay Room Signature Desserts Plate (RMB98). The decadent warm chocolate fondant, oozing a veritable flow of melted chocolate, has been a staple since the early days of the restaurant. A passion fruit tart, with its glassy, caramelized flambé surface, is the highlight of the selection.

With Chef Lartigue's upcoming new menu, and The Cathay Room's large terraces opening up to the public, now is as good a time as any to immerse yourself in one of Shanghai's most historical settings. Dine in a room that has served celebrities and dignitaries alike while enjoying a pristine view of modern Lujiazui, and revel at the incredible transformation and history the city has witnessed in the last century.