Brunch Review | Get Classy at 10 Corso Como

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Wednesday, June 01, 2016 

under Food by Claudio Grillenzoni


The Good: Amazing quality-price ratio; it’s a Michelin-starred tasting menu at the price of a bistro lunch.

The Bad: a Sunday brunch where you cannot choose the food at your pleasure.

 

A lot has been said about 10 Corso Como and the chef, Corrado Michelazzo. The first has been consistently celebrated as one of the top design concept restaurants in the city, while the second has been named one of the most creative, talented and fun chefs not only of the Italian cuisine but among all kitchen masters in Shanghai.


What’s new is that chef Corrado, through the lenses of his trademark glasses (the left half is a circle, the right is a square) has had a new and innovative vision: create a tasting Sunday brunch. Yes, you understood correctly: not a normal Sunday brunch—the classic high level offering of buffet and the free flow of whatever— not a tasting menu à la carte, with typically a 4digit maidan - but rather a Sunday brunch where the chef serves a fix board of 10 courses with his quintessentially artistic touch and command of creative cuisine.


The good thing of it is that you have a creative and high level offer on the table at a very convenient price.  Basically you can get a tasting menu at 398 RMB per person, VAT included (and including free flow of fresh juice and soft drinks), or the same offer with a free flow of good quality Prosecco at 526 RMB (VAT included). In a restaurant of the roughly equivalent level, the same thing would cost you at least 20 percent more. The flip side of that  is the fact that you cannot select courses at your pleasure and you can’t dig into a buffet like a caterpillar. But if that’s what you’re looking for, you probably won’t be going to Corso Como 10 anyway.


What are these ten courses made of? There are some chef Corrado classics , such as the “10 Corso Como” Tuna with viel sauce and frozen tuna sauce (a reimagined reminiscence of the chef’s place of origin in Italy, the picturesque Piedmont) or the Ossobuco, Milan’s signature dish (saffron risotto served with veal’s shank with its bone marrow). There’s the more sophisticated pigeon, lightly spiced, and the intensely elaborate deep-fried cannellone tomato and mozzarella (a kind of Caprese salad destructurated and incapsulated into what reminds you of a Chinese style youtiao).


All in all, Corrado really likes to play when mixing up the tastes of his hometown area (Piedmont and Valle D’aosta, the Italian areas bordering France) and the flavors of Asia. So the French normande fin de claire oyster mixes up surprisingly well with a sauce of wasabi, honey and vinegar; the king crab salad sports unexpected dots of frozen peas and wasabi powder; and the mini sandwich with lobster is enriched with smoked paprika (perfect teaser for local palates).  


The final touch is the Pic Nic Dessert, an assortment of sweet amuse-bouche presented in a cosy Little Red Riding Hood style basket. At this point your stomach will be more than satisfied. Should you be willing to go for the home-run though, we suggest the smashing pleasure of the Valrhona Chocolate Cigar, a smoked three-kind-chocolate dessert that is a pleasure to see, to inhale, to chew, and to feel roiling about inside.

 

The Verdict

In the end, it cannot be stressed enough that you’re getting the full spectrum of a Michelin star chef’s wild culinary imaginations for a fraction of the price you’d normally be paying. It’s a classy, high-end taster course that avoids pretense and instead welcomes you with open arms. If you don’t mind the lack of choice in the offerings (and let’s be honest, who wants to be making decisions on a Sunday afternoon anyway), then this is a brunch set well-worth your hard-earned RMB.

 

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